Italian ricotta and Maltese irkotta - are they the same?

Smooth and creamy ricotta is a versatile ingredient that can be used in both sweet and savoury dishes

Foodies will notice a difference between Italian ricotta and the Maltese made irkotta, and this boils down to the cooking methods.

The manufacturing process of the Maltese irkotta involves the cooking of milk, rather than of milk whey, with the addition of calcium chloride (a type of salt) to form a curd.

Italian ricotta, on the other hand, is actually a by-product of cheese making, using the milk whey left over from cheese production. Though most of the milk protein is removed when cheese is made - mainly casein - some remains in the whey - mostly albumin. The whey is left to become more acidic for 12 to 24 hours and is then heated to near boiling. The combination of the cheese acid and the high temperatures form a fine curd, which, once cooled, is sieved through a fine cloth. The creamy curds are white and sweet in taste, though are highly perishable and must be consumed immediately.

Ricotta, whether the original Italian version or the Maltese irkotta, is used in a number of savoury dishes including ravioli, lasagne or simply spread on bread with a drizzle of olive oil for a light snack as it contains significantly less fat than other cheeses at just 13%. The same as mascarpone, ricotta is a vital ingredient in many Italian desserts such as cheesecake, cannoli and cassatella siciliana.

In addition to its fresh, soft form, ricotta is also sold in three preparations which ensure a longer shelf life: salted, baked and smoked.

The pressed, salted, dried and aged variety of the cheese is known as ricotta salata, milky-white and firm, used for grating or shaving. Ricotta salata is sold in wheels, decorated by a delicate basket-weave pattern.

Ricotta infornata is produced by placing a large lump of soft ricotta in the oven until it develops a brown, lightly charred crust, sometimes even until it becomes sandy brown all the way through. Ricotta infornata is popular primarily in Sardinia and Sicily, and is sometimes called ricotta al forno.

Ricotta affumicata is similar to ricotta infornata. It is produced by placing a lump of soft ricotta in a smoker until it develops a grey crust and acquires a charred wood scent, usually of oak or chestnut wood, although, in Friuli, beech wood is used, with the addition of juniper and herbs.

Ricotta scanta is produced by the process of letting the ricotta go sour in a controlled manner, for about a week, then stirring it every 2-3 days, salting occasionally and allowing the liquid to flow away. After about 100 days, the ricotta has the consistency of cream cheese, with a distinct, pungent, piquant aroma, much like blue cheese but much richer. Ricotta scanta, also called ricotta forte, tastes as it smells, extremely aromatic and piquant, with a definite bitter note. Tasted with the tip of the tongue, it has a "hot" sensation.  or can be enjoyed as a tasty snack simply spread on bread.

Ricotta recipes

Gnocchi di spinaci e ricotta

A classic of Italian cooking, spinach and ricotta gnocchi bear scant resemblance to the better-known potato gnocchi. Lighter and prettier and easier to make, they have a fabulous flavour and pretensions to healthiness, what with all that spinach.

Ingredients

For the gnocchi

• 500g/1lb 2oz frozen spinach, thawed, or 650g/1lb 7oz fresh spinach, cooked until wilting
• 250g/9oz ricotta cheese
• 100g/3½oz parmesan, or similar vegetarian hard cheese, freshly grated
• 150g/5oz plain flour, plus extra for flouring
• 2 free-range eggs
• freshly grated nutmeg
• salt and freshly ground black pepper

For the sauce

• 2 tbsp extra virgin olive oil
• 1 medium onion, chopped
• 1 carrot, finely diced
• 2 garlic cloves, chopped
• 2 x 400g/14oz cans chopped tomatoes
• 2 tbsp tomato purée
• 1 tsp caster sugar
• 1 bouquet garni (3 generous sprigs fresh thyme, 2 bay leaves, 2 big sprigs fresh parsley, tied together with string)
• salt and freshly ground black pepper

To serve

• freshly grated parmesan, or similar vegetarian hard cheese

Preparation method

1. For the gnocchi, place the thawed frozen spinach or cooked fresh spinach into a sieve to drain. Squeeze out as much water as possible, then weigh the spinach - you should have 250g/9oz of spinach after all the water has been squeezed out. Chop it up finely.
2. Place the ricotta into a large bowl and beat until smooth. Add the spinach, parmesan, flour, eggs and plenty of nutmeg. Season generously with salt and freshly ground black pepper and mix well with your hands, making sure it is evenly blended. Cover and leave in the fridge for an hour or more before moving on to the next step.
3. For the sauce, heat the oil in a large pan and fry the onion and carrot slowly until tender. Add the garlic and cook for another minute.
4. Add the tomatoes, tomato purée, caster sugar and the bouquet garni, then season with salt and freshly ground black pepper and stir. Leave to simmer gently for about 30 minutes, stirring frequently to prevent it from catching on the bottom, even adding a splash of water if necessary. Remove from the heat, remove the bouquet garni and allow to cool slightly.
5. Place the tomato mixture into a food processor and blend until smooth, then set aside.
6. Dredge a large plate with plenty of flour. Take dessertspoons of the chilled ricotta mixture, roll into neat balls, then roll in the flour. Place on a floured tray and set aside until needed.
7. Shortly before you intend to eat the gnocchi, bring a wide, shallow pan of water to the boil, then turn the heat down to a more gentle simmer. Carefully add your gnocchi to the pan, taking care not to overcrowd, and poach for 10-15 minutes, turning occasionally.
8. Meanwhile, gently reheat the tomato sauce.
9. When the gnocchi are cooked, remove them from the water with a slotted spoon and place onto warmed plates, or into one large shallow serving dish, and pour over the tomato sauce. Sprinkle with grated parmesan